I have treated many sun-damaged skins in the past, especially when I was working in Africa. It is something I have been studying and tackling for the past 18 years. I find it fascinating how much the skin can age from being exposed to the sun. A lot of the time clients will say to me, ”But I wear sunscreen; I am really careful.” But it's the long-term damage (exposure of the sun) to the skin. It could be exposure to the sun that we had in our early years of life which can come to the surface later in life. It is so important to detect sinister lesions early. The inflammation caused by the sun happens every day from the minute you expose your skin to daylight. I know it looks great to have a little bit of a tan, but “the tan” is your skin’s damage response from the sun. Over time this “tan” develops into uneven pigmentation.

What are the signs of sun damage apart from sunburn?

Premature ageing can cause fine lines, wrinkles and sagging due to deterioration of collagen and elastin
Uneven skin tone with redness and broken capillaries
Sebaceous hyperplasia often occurs on the forehead or the middle of the face; an enlarged sebaceous gland with trapped sebum can occur after long sun-exposure
Pigmentation caused by sunlight can trigger melanin production
Solar keratosis is the thickening of the keratinous layer of the skin. Lesions appear raised, dry, rough and have a slightly scaly surface. Sometimes the lesion can be felt before you see it, and it is always pigmented.
Squamous cell carcinoma (skin cancer) is a warty plaque, nodule, or raised ulcer that oozes or bleeds. It can metastasise into the lower tissues and internal organs and is typically found on the face, hands and lower legs.
Basal cell carcinoma (skin cancer) is a raised, scaly red nodule that may ulcerate. The borders can have a pearly appearance. It destroys surrounding tissues and bones.
Malignant melanoma (most aggressive skin cancer) is a lesion that can be brown/black/blue in colour, can be itchy or painful, and can bleed. Usually it spreads rapidly.

Catching skin cancers early is just as important as applying sun protection in my opinion. I recommend going for mole checks once a year and to thoroughly self examine. If you notice any changes in moles or any suspicious-looking lesions contact your dermatologist or GP.

But what if I have darker skin?

Regardless of your skin colour, you are not protected from premature ageing and skin cancer, it will just take longer.

How can I prevent sun damage other than applying sunscreen? And how do I repair it?

I believe prevention is the best way to fight skin cancer! Applying sunscreen every 1-1.5 hours and wearing a hat is crucial. The most common mistake people make is that they do not use enough sunscreen. Use a broad-spectrum sunscreen. Sunscreens also have a lot of chemicals in them which can be damaging to the skin. I prefer mineral sunscreens like titanium dioxide and zinc oxide rather than chemical sunscreens. Titanium dioxide and zinc oxide act as a barrier between skin and sun. My favourite sunscreen brands are Environ, Nimue, Eminence and Heliocare.

There is substantial evidence that certain ingredients both oral and topically should be part of your sun protection plan. Vitamin B3 or niacinamide are great supplements to repair and stimulate barrier function in the skin. This ingredient also lessens UV induced pigmentation by controlling the release of melanin production.

Research has shown that lycopene, which is an antioxidant found in tomatoes, protects against UVA and UVB. Other antioxidants like lutein (found in kale and spinach) and zeaxanthin (found in corn and paprika) are powerful sun protection.

UV rays can cause free radicals and cell damage in the skin, also Vitamin A and D depletion. Therefore, taking Vitamin A is vital to offsetting UV damage with its important actions of repairing and regulating the skin's function. Retinyl palmitate (the storage form of Vitamin A) has photo-protective properties, but you only have this level of protection if you have optimum Vitamin A levels in the skin, which you can achieve by applying topically and taking Vitamin A orally every day.

Astaxanthin has strong UV protection properties by increasing the skin's resistance to burning and regulating moisture loss when the skin is exposed to the sun. Astaxanthin is a potent antioxidant known as "carotenoids". It is found in algae, due to consuming a high level of these algae, it gives flamingos and shrimp their pink colour. Skin Plus and Skin Ultimate under my hero products both contain astaxanthin.

When the skin is exposed to the sun it can suppress the skin's immune system. Studies have shown that omega 3 fish oil can boost the skin's immunity in sunlight. By suppressing the skin's immunity it can increase the risk of skin cancer. Omegas also will provide the skin with extra hydration, preventing the skin from getting dry and flaky.

Vitamin C is one of the strongest antioxidants for the skin to reverse signs of ageing due to free radical damage, and it also helps with pigmentation.

Sun damage can slow the rate at which skin cells turn over, so it also helps to consider chemical exfoliants that can stimulate faster skin cell turnover. I recommend skincare brands that contain alpha-hydroxy and salicylic acid. I recommend having medium depth peels, removing damaged cells from the upper layers of the skin, every 3-4 weeks, depending on the peel and the skin classification.

Hydroquinone used in conjunction with retinoids can help remove superficial pigmentation and sunspots.

I use cryotherapy to remove sebaceous hyperplasia and seborrheic keratosis. Cryotherapy (cold surgery) is a highly effective and safe procedure that is used to freeze and destroy benign skin lesions. It uses liquefied nitrous oxide to destroy tissue by freezing the intracellular fluid which forms ice shards and crystals that rupture the cell membrane, destroying the cell.

Micro-needling can improve pigmentation and texture as well as stimulate collagen production. It is my number one go-to treatment for sun damage. Micro-needling harnesses your body's natural powers of healing to tighten skin and achieve incredible results. The skin responds the same way it would react to an injury. The small amount of bleeding that is caused by this treatment releases powerful growth factors which are part of a natural healing response, resulting in increased collagen and elastin production.

You only have one skin, preserve it and protect it! By using the right supplements, foods, products, and sunscreens you will protect your skin at its optimum.